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Dirt, moss and algae build up over time and damage the roof if they're left. A clean and a treatment keep it in good condition and extend its life.

It depends on the type of roof, the local climate and how many trees are nearby. As a rule, a roof needs one deep clean and then a top-up treatment every one to four years.

Roofs can be cleaned by soft washing, steam cleaning, pressure washing or by hand. The right method depends on your tiles and how dirty the roof is. We'll recommend the best one for your roof when we survey it.

We survey your roof when we quote and tell you about any damage or concerns. We check again on the day, before we start, and we'll replace small numbers of tiles while we're up there.

Done badly, yes: high pressure in untrained hands, or on the wrong tiles, can strip protective coatings or damage the tiles. That's why we survey every roof before we quote, so we know the safe way to clean it.

It depends on the size of the roof, what needs cleaning, access and the method needed. Get in touch and we'll give you a free, no-obligation quote.

Moss, leaves and silt build up until the water can't get away. Gutters then overflow, and the water damages your brickwork, roofline, foundations and eventually the inside of the house.

It depends on the property. We use ladders, scaffolding or a gutter vacuum system, and choose whichever is safest for the access you have.

Yes. We clear the outlets and downpipes as well as the gutters, so water flows through the entire system.

We'll tell you after the clean, and can recommend gutter guards or replacement sections if they're needed.

Your gutters are cleared in a single visit, with as little mess and disruption as possible.

It depends on the size of the property and the access. Get in touch and we'll give you a free, no-obligation quote.

We recommend a professional clean at least once a year, ideally in spring or early autumn. Homes near busy roads, trees or the coast may need cleaning more often.

No. We use soft-wash techniques and gentle, non-abrasive products made for UPVC, and we never use pressure washers on delicate trim or frames.

In most cases we bring everything we need, though an outside tap can speed things up. We'll confirm what we need when you book.

Yes. We also clean conservatories, garage doors, cladding and other UPVC on the outside of your property. Just let us know what you need.

A typical job takes one to three hours, depending on the size and condition of the property. We'll give you a more accurate estimate when you book.

Yes. Many customers combine UPVC cleaning with gutter emptying to refresh the whole roofline in one visit.

Yes. We use a soft-wash method designed for delicate render. Unlike high-pressure jet washing, it lifts stains without damaging the surface or fading the colour.

Usually algae, moss, lichen or air pollution. We remove them, then apply a biocide to stop them coming back quickly.

In most cases two to three years, depending on where you live. Properties near trees, in shade or on the coast may see growth return sooner. We can advise on treatments that help it last longer.

Not always. On most two-storey homes we reach the upper walls with ladders or mobile towers. If scaffolding is needed, we'll tell you in advance and include it in the quote.

Yes. We work with landlords, letting agents, care homes, schools and offices, and can fit the work around your access and timing needs.

Yes, and that's how most customers book it. Tell us when you ask for your quote and we'll include it.

Not when the method suits the surface. That's why we check what the patio is made of before we start: natural stone, concrete and block paving don't all take the same treatment.

Shade and damp let algae grow, and moss washing off the roof seeds it. If the roof is the source, a roof clean and a patio clean together stop the cycle.

Yes. Paths, steps and the areas around the house are often the parts that matter most, because that's where people walk.

A small patch can sometimes be cleaned with household products. Anything larger needs a specialist, with the equipment and training to remove it safely, stop it spreading and fix the cause.

Anywhere from a few hours to several days, depending on how far it has spread and what's involved, from inspection through to restoration.

It depends on your policy. Mould from a sudden leak may be covered; mould from long-term damp often isn't. Check with your insurer.

By dealing with the moisture behind it: fixing leaks, improving ventilation and keeping humidity down. We'll tell you what your property needs.

It can be, particularly for children, older people and anyone with a weakened immune system or a breathing condition. It's best dealt with quickly.

It depends on the size of the area, how severe the growth is and what's causing it. We inspect first, then give you a quote.

Ozone (O3) breaks down the molecules that cause odours by oxidising them, including those deep in fabrics and surfaces. It doesn't cover a smell up, it removes it at the source.

Yes, when it's carried out by professionals. Nobody, including pets, can stay in the treated area while it runs. Once we've aired the property out, the ozone has turned back into oxygen and the space is safe to use again.

Smoke, pet urine, mould, food, waste, and biological odours such as body odour and vomit. It's also useful after a fire, a flood or pests.

Most treatments take one to three hours, depending on the size of the space and how strong the smell is. You can go back in a few hours later, once we've aired it out.

Only if its source comes back, such as active damp or repeated pet accidents. If the source is dealt with before the treatment, the odour won't return. We'll advise you on this when we inspect.

Yes. We regularly treat cars, vans, caravans, garages and single rooms within a property.

Yes. Every wall coating comes with a 10-year guarantee and a 25-year life expectancy. The product was tested against 25 years of accelerated weathering and passed.

If you have damp or mould, the outside of the house looks tired, or you want it protected from the weather for the long term, a wall coating is the right next step.

Usually just one day. The walls have to be completely dry before we apply it, so in a British winter we sometimes have to move the date for the weather.

Almost none. It's super-hydrophobic and cleans itself in the rain.

Every house is different. We visit, look at what needs doing and talk through what you want, then give you an exact quote.

Yes, when they're fitted properly. They greatly reduce blockages from leaves, moss and debris and keep water flowing in heavy rain. No system is completely maintenance-free, but your gutters will need cleaning far less often.

We fit mesh and solid-top systems. Which one suits you depends on your roof, your gutters and how many trees are nearby. The guards are rust-proof and UV-stable, and we'll recommend the right one when we inspect your gutters.

No. The guards let the water through while keeping the debris out. We check the fit and alignment on every installation so the system drains as it should.

Far less often. We recommend a visual check once a year, and we can combine that with other maintenance if you'd like us to do it.

DIY kits are available, but guards that are fitted badly can make water spill over the gutter or damage the gutters themselves. We fit them securely, safely and so they last.

Yes. We can empty your gutters on the same visit, so the system is fully clear before the guards go on.

They're physical barriers, such as mesh, spikes or solar panel skirts, that stop birds landing, nesting or roosting on a particular spot. We place them where the birds are active, without affecting how your property works or looks.

No. We use non-invasive fixings that won't damage your roof, tiles or panels, and guards on solar panels block access without affecting the panels' performance or airflow.

Most are very discreet. We colour-match where possible and position them to stay out of sight from ground level.

Yes. We work with landlords, housing associations, schools and commercial property owners, and use scaffolding or MEWPs to fit guards safely at height.

Yes. We clear out nesting material and disinfect the area before fitting the guards.

Active nests are protected by UK wildlife law, so if birds are nesting we may need to wait until the nesting season ends before we start.

Yes. The guards are designed to deter birds, not harm them, and we work within UK wildlife law.

Easi-Dec is a portable, modular platform system for short-term work at height. Unlike traditional scaffolding it goes up in under an hour, needs no fixed installation, and suits targeted jobs like guttering, window fitting or roofline maintenance.

Yes. Our set-ups comply with the UK Work at Height Regulations. Each one has stabilisers, guardrails and toe boards, and is installed by our trained team.

The standard platform gives safe access up to around 6.5 metres, roughly 2-storey height. That covers most homes and low-rise commercial buildings.

Yes. We use bridging units to span conservatories, porches and windows, which gives safe access to rooflines that would otherwise be awkward to reach.

Yes. The platforms have adjustable legs that compensate for sloping or uneven ground, so the working area is level and safe.

It's generally more cost-effective than full scaffolding, especially for short jobs. Get in touch and we'll give you a free quote based on your property and the work.

Not necessarily. We'll look at your property and recommend what actually needs replacing. Some customers replace everything for a uniform finish; others deal with the problem areas only.

Look out for cracked or sagging boards, peeling paint, leaking gutters, or water marks on the outside walls near the roofline. Mould or rot in the roof timbers can also be a warning sign.

For most homes, yes. UPVC is low-maintenance and weather-resistant, doesn't warp or rot, and never needs repainting. It comes in a range of finishes to suit your property.

Properly installed UPVC roofline systems can last 20 to 30 years or more with very little upkeep.

Both, depending on the property. We cap over the old boards where that's the most cost-efficient option for you, and replace them fully where it isn't. When we quote, we'll tell you which we recommend and why.

It depends on the size of your property and the materials you choose. Get in touch and we'll give you a free, no-obligation quote after a quick inspection.

Yes, we're registered on the In-tend portal.

Yes. We prepare them for the work before it starts, based on the survey and the access each property needs.

We photograph it and include it in that property's record. Small numbers of slipped or broken roof tiles can be replaced while we're up there; anything larger is quoted separately for you to approve.

We clear old nesting material, disinfect the area and fit guards. Active nests are protected by UK wildlife law, so where birds are nesting we schedule the work for after the nesting season.

It depends on the building and what is around it: a site surrounded by trees fills its gutters far faster than an open one. We'll suggest a frequency after the first visit, based on what we actually find in the gutters.

With whichever is safest for the building: a gutter vacuum system from the ground, ladders, Easi-Dec platforms, scaffolding, or a cherry picker for higher roofs. We assess the access before we quote.

Yes. We take before and after photos and report any damage or defects we find, so you have a record for the property file.

For most homes, yes. A blocked gutter overflows down the walls, into the roofline and around the foundations, and the damp and rot that follow cost far more to put right than the clean itself. Many home insurers also expect gutters to be maintained, so keeping them clear can help if you ever need to make a claim.

On a bungalow or a low extension, plenty of people do it themselves, and it's fine if you're steady on a ladder and careful. Use a ladder that's in good condition on firm, level ground, have someone foot it, and don't lean out to reach: move the ladder instead.

Higher gutters are a different matter. Working above the first floor, over a conservatory or on uneven ground is where most ladder accidents happen, and it's the point where we'd suggest paying someone with the right access equipment and insurance.

Yes. Clearing the gutters is only half the job if the downpipes are blocked, so we clear the outlets and downpipes as well and check the water runs away freely before we leave.

Gutter clearance is just another name for gutter cleaning or emptying: removing the moss, leaves, silt and debris so rainwater flows to the downpipes. We also tell you about any cracked, sagging or leaking sections we spot while we're up there.

Yes. We'll look at your gutters and give you a price with no obligation to go ahead.

Not when it's done properly. We choose the method after surveying the roof, use hand tools that match the shape of your tiles, and keep any steam at low pressure. If taking the moss off reveals a slipped or cracked tile, we'll show you, and we can replace small numbers of tiles while we're on the roof.

It can. High pressure in untrained hands, or on tiles that aren't suited to it, can strip protective coatings and damage the tiles themselves. That's why we survey every roof before we quote, and why we normally remove moss by hand or with low-pressure steam instead.

The treatment we apply after removal slows regrowth, but it doesn't stop it forever. Most roofs need a quick top-up treatment every one to four years, depending on the roof and its surroundings, such as nearby trees. When we quote, we'll tell you what we expect for yours.

Scraping alone leaves the spores behind, so the moss tends to return quickly, and working on a roof without the right access equipment is risky. We work from a scaffold tower or a cherry picker, and finish with a biocide and an anti-fungal treatment so the job lasts.

Yes. Moss from the roof ends up in the gutters, so we clear them and the downpipes before we leave, and take all the waste away with us.

After the first deep clean and treatment, most roofs need a top-up every one to four years. It depends on the roof covering, the local climate and how many trees are nearby. We'll recommend an interval for your building when we survey it.

Not when the method suits the roof. Damage comes from high pressure on the wrong tiles, which can strip their surface. We survey first and clean by hand or with low-pressure steam, so the tiles come away clean but intact.

Phase 1 applies to social landlords in England. Private landlords have their own duties on damp and mould; check the current government guidance for your situation.

Not always. Ventilation, insulation and heating matter too, and some damp rises from the ground. But exterior defects are among the most common and easiest causes to fix, so they should always be ruled out.

No. It's a plain-English summary of the government's published guidance. For decisions on compliance, take advice and read the regulations themselves.

At least once a year, after the leaves come down. Properties under or beside trees usually need a second clear in spring.

Usually. A gutter clear costs a fraction of the damp, rot and repairs that a blocked gutter causes, and planned visits are priced up front, so the spend is easier to budget.

Yes. Send us your property list and current timetable, and we'll price the exterior tasks per property to fit it.

On a bungalow, with a sound ladder, someone to foot it and gloves, many people do. Above single storey it's a different matter, and a fall from a ladder is a serious one. We clear first-floor and higher gutters from the ground with a gutter vacuum, or from a ladder or Easi-Dec platform set up safely.

November or December, once the leaves are down, is the best single month for most homes. If you're near trees, add a second clear in spring.

If it still leaks after a clear, has cracks along its length, sags between brackets, or the board behind it is soft or rotten, it's time to look at replacement. We'll tell you which it is when we're up there.

Yes. A clear gutter is no use if the downpipe is blocked, so we check that water runs freely all the way down and clear any blockage we find.

Not when it's done over sound timber. It's a recognised way of renewing a roofline. It becomes a problem when it's used to cover boards that are already rotten, because the rot carries on underneath where nobody can see it.

Usually, yes. The gutters are fixed to the fascias, so when the boards are capped or replaced, it makes sense to renew the gutters on the same visit.

Yes. Some customers replace the whole roofline for a uniform finish; others deal with the worst sections only. We'll show you what we found and you choose.

Gutters usually need clearing once a year, twice if there are trees nearby. Roofline washing and roof checks can often follow a longer cycle. We'll suggest a timetable for your property when we survey it.

That's exactly when it's worth it. The point is to find the blocked outlet or the slipped tile before it becomes a leak, not after.

Yes. We plan and price cyclical programmes per property, work around tenants and report on every visit. See our page for housing providers for how it works.

Not automatically. If the damage was most likely caused by the blockage building up over time, a gradual-damage or maintenance exclusion may apply. If it was a sudden event, it may well be covered. It depends on your policy wording and the evidence.

No UK-wide rule says so. Policies expect reasonable maintenance, and keeping gutters clear is part of that, but how often depends on your house and what's around it.

Dated photos, invoices and any inspection reports for work on the roof, gutters, roofline and walls. Keep them somewhere you can find them if you ever need to make a claim.

Only slightly. The profile is a little deeper,, but from the ground most people can't tell.

Not the gutters themselves, but adding a downpipe or a larger outlet can help a run that's close to coping. Where the whole system is undersized, replacement is the fix.

No. They carry more water, but leaves and moss still collect in them. They still need clearing, and gutter guards are worth considering if you're near trees.